I have waited to discuss the Hawker Centres for two reasons:
- I wanted to visit a few to get the feeling of their general themes and commonalities.
- I needed to be starved enough to actually go and not end up ordering Western Food.
So let's quickly educate the Americans and other non-Singaporeans reading this post, who of course are asking what the heck a Hawker Centre is?
Hawker Centres are old style food-markets, much like a food court in a mall, but are almost always located in open-air pavilions, where individuals can buy many traditional Singaporean meals (with an even split of Muslim, India, Chinese and Japanese foods). They are considered a pillar of Singaporean tradition and culture and never have I been to one, day or night, that wasn't filled with people dining on a variety of dishes.
When I explain this to people and get a look of confusion I instead point to the food carts that seem to troll the city side-walks of most American cities, selling everything from falafels to burgers. Then I point out the delis, bodegas and delicatessen where we can buy either quick groceries or grab a sandwich. The Singapore government, feeling that these stalls were unhygienic (seriously look inside on and you'd scream!) decided to move them all to one location, where it would be easier to police them and keep them clean.
My first real exposure to Hawkers was Singapore Day in New York in Summer of 2012, when the Singapore government flew famous Hawkers from all over the country into Prospect Park in Brooklyn, New York, to sell traditional Singaporean dishes to the estimated 3,500 Singaporeans who lived in the city. My boyfriend first explained what a Hawker was in vague tone to me. Now looking back on it I do believe in earnest that he enjoys to see me exposed to unknown cultures and ideas, to see me grow and learn with as little guidance or influence from him as needed... either that or he get's sadistic pleasure seeing me flustered and confused!
Here the stalls sell traditional Singapore dishes, like Laksa noodles to Tom Yum Soup to Black Pepper Beef to Almond Bean Curd and all at readily affordable prices. Why pay S$10 at McDonalds for a burger when you could get three times as much at a Hawker Centre for the same? Most consider it be economical to dine at such establishments, for some its the last stronghold to a culture that is rapidly becoming westernised, with air-conditioned food courts and restaurants slowly driving them out.
Hawker Centres seem to occupy this double-standard in Singapore culture. They tend to be located in areas near the less affluent, near public housing or in areas known for their lower-income levels. However they are frequented by Singaporeans of all levels and most will rave its the only place to get authentic local food.
But when you enter one of these establishments you must remember some rules before you really can get into it:
- Hawker Centres are NOT known for their hygiene. The government rewards those stalls that rate favourably with lower rents to incentivize and frequently survey the centres but it is not uncommon to find vendors with a C-rating. When you approach a counter for your meal, its time to enact the blinders. Nothing ruins your delicious meal faster than seeing the disarray of the kitchen behind the counter... and delicious they can be!
- Few Hawkers speak perfect English as a first language. If you don't get one, either point at what you want or speak slowly but never become frustrated, they will not hesitate to call you out for being rude!
- A smile and thank you can mean the difference between being served with a scowl or with a special treat. Most of those working in Hawker Centres are older (retired Singaporeans tend to live with their children but also like to do part-time jobs to feel useful). A kind word of thanks and understanding can get you a grateful smile from the Auntie delivering your Laska and sometimes, she'll toss in a free coke or a complimentary orange wedge to clear your pallet.
- You don't have to tip, but maybe letting them keep the change can win you some brownie points if you frequent a particular stall. I haven't paid for my lunch-time coke in almost three weeks because the Aunties know I always leave my change in the tip jar.
- Hawker Centres are normally crowded around any meal time. Don't get your food right away, instead find your seat first, have a friend hold your spot while you gather your food and when you return, hold their seat as they do the same. If there is not someone to physically hold the spot, customers will not hesitate to move your things.
- Never order western food at a Hawker Centre... NEVER! Even if the stall has menu items for spaghetti or burgers or pizza, this is closer to what the Hawker vendors thinks it should be... not what it is. Spaghetti is made with entirely too much butter and they add hot peppers to it! Burgers tend to be dry, since the beef patties are normally cooked too long. I was thrilled to get cheesy fries... only to realize they'd melted slices of American cheese over my fries and then drown it in ketchup... such blasphemy! I have only found one stall in three-months that makes an adequate burger and even then, its only with a lot of leeway I give it to accept such a title!
That is the wisdom I can impart about Hawker Centres. Don't set your bar high, ignore the worse and I guarantee you are going to have some... interesting... food.
